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Is My Dog Resource Guarding?

Resource guarding is a common behavioral response to a perceived threat. This instinctual response becomes problematic when aggressive guarding behaviors are directed at humans or other animals.

Aggressive resource guarding is a jarring experience but we have tools to prevent and stop resource guarding. Positive reinforcement training can effectively resolve resource guarding by addressing the underlying root causes of the behavior rather than just suppress the warning signs which can lead to increased aggression.

What is resource guarding?

‘Resource guarding’ is broadly used by trainers, behavioral experts, researchers and other care-providers to name specific patterns of instinctual behaviors. 

In behavioral science, resource guarding is “the use of avoidance, threatening, or aggressive behaviors by a dog to retain control of food or non-food items in the presence of a person or other animal.” As behavioral professionals, we simplify  resource guarding as what dogs do to prevent someone from taking an item they value.

Resource guarding occurs when a dog determines an item is valuable and when another animal or person is a threat. Resource guarding functionally communicates that the dog does not want to share the item and moves the ‘threat’ away from the item or the item away from the ‘threat’. 

Why do dogs resource guard?

Behavior does not exist in a vacuum. Learning science shows that behaviors serve a purpose and persist if the behaviors lead to a favorable outcome. Resource guarding serves an important purpose– it helps the dog control access to a valuable resource. This type of behavior has deep biological roots tied to survival instincts for food, safety, and affection.

Many animals resource guard– including humans. It’s not hard to imagine how it would feel if you were happily enjoying a new toy or a favorite treat and someone walked over and took it away. You may yell at the person, hide the item, or move away from the person.  All of those reactions are more likely to prevent the person from taking your special treat compared to not doing anything. Your resource guarding would be an effective way to ensure you can enjoy your treat or toy without interruption.

Understanding these emotional and biological drivers is the first step toward managing the behavior. If you are interested in learning more about the science of dog behavior and training– sign up for our newsletter.

Is my dog resource guarding?

Resource guarding is a common behavior but the intensity of the behavior, the items that cause the guarding, and what the dog perceives as a threat can all vary. It is highly probable that your dog will resource guard at some point and they may tend towards a particular type of guarding behavior. Current research suggests three types of resource guarding:

  • rapid ingestion (i.e., rapid consumption of an edible item) 
  • avoidance (i.e., positioning of the head or body to maintain item control, or location change with the item) 
  • aggression (i.e., lip lifting, snarling, growling, or snapping)

Keep an eye out for the three types of guarding across contexts and with new items. Track the intensity of the behavior, the context for the behavior, and where the behavior was directed. Some dogs may start with or combine resource guarding types and non-aggressive guarding patterns can go unnoticed. (Even research and clinical treatment has been mainly focused on aggressive patterns of behavior.) 

Dogs usually start with more subtle or polite behavioral communication. 

Early communication of discomfort can include lip licking, a tightening of posture, a nervous tail wag, and side eye. They might begin turning away from the perceived threat with a subtle head movement or turning their back before leaving the room entirely. Watch for a change in movement speed– from slow and relaxed to more frantic movements. 

Communication patterns are sometimes subtle and easy to miss. If you want more support in reading your dog’s body language and translating their behavioral patterns– we can help. 

How do I stop resource guarding? 

You’re on the right track! 

In research studies, people that reported having an advanced knowledge of dog behavior or had participated in professional dog training classes were significantly better at correctly identifying resource guarding behavior patterns. If you can see the pattern you can address it. 

Avoid punishing guarding behaviors.

Critically, don’t punish the early behaviors of resource guarding patterns. Punishing communication does not address the underlying behavioral root and instead takes away the early warning signs. Punishing a dog for lip lifting may stop the lip lifting but it also takes away a key communication strategy. The dog could escalate to a more aggressive behavior such as snapping– without the warning. Punishment could also make the instinct to guard more pronounced. If you become a larger threat the dog is more likely to guard a larger variety of items or with greater intensity. 

In contrast, the most recent advances in behavior science show that resource guarding can be effectively managed and stopped with positive reinforcement training. Counter conditioning and desensitization protocols can reduce the physiological and emotional drivers of the behavior. These methods reduce the perception of threat which in turn eliminates the dog’s need for resource guarding. 

Use behavioral science to develop an effective training toolkit. 

Since resource guarding depends on many individual factors, every dog will start at a slightly different place or require adapting elements of the training.  Many of our classes will provide exercises and training tools that can help you work with your resource guarder. Our adult foundations classes or the puppy foundations classes are great places to start working on these skills with expert support from our certified dog training professionals. Generally, we use a few different exercises from our training toolkit to help with resource guarding:

  • Teach a classically-conditioned ‘drop it’ to prevent conflicted emotional responses to releasing an item. 
  • Use pattern games to build trust and predictability into resources.
  • Work on recall so that we have a tool to move a dog away from an item and get their attention back on us. 
  • Desensitize and counter-condition with many repetitions in a variety of contexts to change the learned associations with different items.

Get support from our behavioral experts in group classes or with individual training programs. 

If you are concerned about your dog’s resource guarding, our certified dog trainers are happy to provide individualized behavioral support. Our trainers will evaluate the unique context, the behavioral patterns, and intensity of the behaviors to expertly tailor a training protocol to address your concerns. The behavioral consult will provide you with a toolkit of the most effective science-based methods to humanely address the guarding behaviors.   Sign up for Private Training with one of our certified trainers.

If you want to get a head start on preventing resource guarding from developing– check out this post on preventing resource guarding in puppies.

 

The science behind the article:
Jacobs, J. (2016). Understanding Canine Resource Guarding Behaviour: An Epidemiological Approach (Doctoral dissertation, University of Guelph). 
Jacobs, J. A., Pearl, D. L., Coe, J. B., Widowski, T. M., & Niel, L. (2017). Ability of owners to identify resource guarding behaviour in the domestic dog. Applied animal behaviour science, 188, 77-83. 
Jacobs, J. A., Coe, J. B., Widowski, T. M., Pearl, D. L., & Niel, L. (2018). Defining and clarifying the terms canine possessive aggression and resource guarding: A study of expert opinion. Frontiers in veterinary science, 5, 115.
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Sharing About Resource Guarding

Resource guarding is an instinctual response to a perceived threat to a valuable item. Resource guarding refers to a behavioral response or pattern of behaviors. While some of these behaviors can be unnoticed, other aggressive behaviors are  problematic when directed at humans or other animals in the home. While experiencing aggressive resource guarding is a jarring experience, we have tools to prevent and stop resource guarding.

Positive reinforcement training can effectively resolve resource guarding by addressing the underlying root causes of the behavior using the latest research in learning and behavioral science.

 

If you are new to positive reinforcement training, many of our classes will provide exercises and training tools that can help you work with your resource guarder. Our adult foundations classes or the puppy foundations classes are great places to start working on these skills with expert support from our certified dog training professionals. Group classes provide structured spaces to learn skills and see how they can be applied to different situations.  

In addition to a structured class to introduce or refine positive reinforcement training techniques; we recommend these resources:

 

Finally, If you are concerned about your dog and want individualized support from certified training professionals, we can do that.

A behavioral expert will provide an at-home evaluation to see the resource guarding in context and then develop a unique training program to address your concerns. Following a consult, our certified trainers will provide you with a toolkit of the most effective science-based methods to humanely address the guarding behaviors. 

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Stop Barking

It can be hard to be the person with the barky dog in training class. With most problem behaviors, a good tactic is to manage the situation so that the behavior doesn’t pop up and then train the dog something else to do instead. So rather than barking at others, he could be staring adoringly at you, for example… We can’t expect that behavior while he’s surrounded by several new dogs, so one thing you can do is put up a visual barrier and then over time, make life more realistic by removing the barrier, bit by bit.

Here is a list of some of the things that we’ve found to help with barking. You don’t have to do all of them, but the more, the better.

  1. Teach your dog a Focus Trick, like Spin or Touch. When you see your dog getting antsy – staring at other dogs, ignoring you, etc., you can cue the Focus Trick. Reward with praise some times, other times with treats.
  2. Lots of exercise before class can help your barky dog calm down. A nice long walk is better than a ton of fetch.
  3. No food before class. (For the dog, that is. You might want to eat if it helps you feel calm!)
  4. We have the barriers that were mentioned above at the training center. The back section by the windows is somewhat easier on the dogs who like to bark at the other dogs in the class. Arriving first will help you get set up in the best spot.
  5. Busy dogs are quiet! Dogs will often stare at each other, and then bark, when the instructor is speaking to the class, because they’re not getting as much attention from their humans. Kongs with peanut butter, bully sticks, Bouncy Bones, and other food-based toys can make a big difference. Bring a variety of chew toys to distract your dog in class. Try to give her the toy before she starts barking. If she barks, get her attention back using her name or a tap on the behind, ask for a sit, then give the toy. Tug toys may also work for some active tuggers, but that can get too loud, too, so use tug in moderation during class.
  6. If the dog is little, you might scoop him up to sit on your lap during the explanations. There’s no point in getting him all worked up if we can help it. Calm, relaxed massage can help small and big dogs alike. As with the toys, try this approach before the barking starts.
  7. There’s a Dog Appeasing Pheromone collar that can keep them calm around town and in class. Many vets sell them.
  8. “Doggie Calm” is aromatherapy that can help with barking. We sell that at the training center and online.
  9. In class (and elsewhere), click/treat for calm behavior, mostly attention to you, but catch all of those good decisions where he was thinking about barking, but doesn’t. When you see him thinking of barking, which happens often when a new dog walks in the room, say his name or “shhhh” and click/treat for the one second of silence that produces.
  10. Teach a cue to signal quiet time. This takes time, so you’ll need to do the other things on this list in the meantime. Say “shhh” with your finger to your lips. When your dog is silent for one second, click and treat. Over time, start to require two, three, ten, or more seconds before clicking. At home, if the dog returns to barking, say “Too Bad!” and give her a time out in another room or a crate (if she’s fine with her crate). After one minute of silence, bring her back out. We have a big crate at the training center that you are welcome to use for time outs.
  11. Bringing a rug for them to sit on can make dogs feel more at ease. Of course, that’s what human laps are for if your dog fits. ????
  12. Bring two people, so one can work on keeping your dog quiet and the other can listen to the instructor.*
  13. If you’re alone, learn to multi-task in class. Ask your dog for behaviors he already knows well, like lying down, targeting your hand, or tricks. Please use hand signals instead of words, though, or your voice will distract others, instead of your dog’s barking!
  14. Recommended Reading: Dogwise books on barking
  15. If all else fails, you can put your dog in the car and come back to class to get the instruction. Work on “shhh” and attention to you for another week and your dog should be able to come back the next time!

*This may not be possible due to pandemic restrictions, if applicable.

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Tuesday Tip: a Sure-Fire Way to Socialize Your Puppy

When socializing your puppy, take it at the puppy’s speed. If he wants to walk away from a person, go with him! He may just need a moment to regroup and build his confidence. It’s critical that puppies have good experiences as their own pace, not forced interactions.

Watch for body language while he’s being petted, like glancing away, turning his head, sniffing the ground, walking away, shaking off, or quickly licking his lips. If you see any of those, just happily say, “let’s go!” and walk a few steps away with the puppy. You can even hand out a treat at that point (for putting up with the stranger and for coming with you), and then possibly see if he wants to go back for more.

Do this with everything: other dogs, strangers, kids, garbage cans, etc. Let him check out scary stuff from what he thinks is a safe distance. The more he can trust you on the leash, the more brave he will be. And since most aggression is really just fear, now is your chance to do some aggression prevention.

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Muzzle Training 101

Here’s a great YouTube video on how to get your dog used to wearing a muzzle. Dogs hate muzzles when they first go on, so it’s essential to train them to wear them comfortably if you need one. Muzzles do not keep a dog from wanting to bite, they just keep them from being able to. I only use muzzles to introduce a dog to a person or another dog when I’m sure it should go well, but I still want the situation to be safe, in case I’m wrong. I also use them when dogs who may bite have to be handled, as at the vet. We can’t count on our own timing, because dogs are ridiculously fast!!

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