Ahimsa Puppy Day Training Guide | Ahimsa Dog Training

Your puppy will be working on the three behaviors that you selected on your Puppy Day Training Intake Form. On your puppy’s report cards, the trainer will note the names and difficulty levels of the exercises that your puppy was trained on that day. You can then find a full description of each exercise below so you can continue your training at home. But don’t rush into it. Having calm, relaxing time at home on the days of puppy camp is important. Allow your puppy to rest, catch up on sleep and recharge for the next exciting day of training. The exceptions are your puppy’s natural behaviors such as jumping, biting, barking and pulling on leash. To successfully replace these unwanted behaviors with more appropriate behaviors, you need to be training or by managing your puppy’s environment all of the time.

We use clicker training for all our puppy camp exercises. Clicker training is a simple, yet very powerful technique that significantly improves communication between you and your puppy and speeds up your puppy’s learning. Because clicker training uses positive reinforcement, it also creates a strong bond between you and your puppy. A clicker makes a very short, distinct sound. This sound is used as a marker that pinpoints the behavior that earned your puppy a reinforcer. For a click to have that magical meaning, you always have to treat right after you click, preferably within 2 seconds. Once your puppy understands what s/he has to do in order to hear the click and get a treat, s/he will start repeating that behavior to earn more clicks and treats. Once your puppy is reliably repeating the behavior, it can be put on a cue or simply built into a strong habit.

Our exercises are divided into different levels that increase in difficulty. When you work on the exercise at home or any new environment for the first time we recommend that you start with level 1 even if your puppy is already working on a more advanced level in puppy camp. Your puppy has to generalize what s/he has learned in camp to different situations and environments. Starting with level 1 is an easy way to remind your puppy that it is a same exercise that s/he already is familiar with – just presented in a new context (e.g. working with mom versus trainer, different location). In addition, always make sure that your puppy mastered the previous level before you move to the next one.

For certain exercises you will notice that we recommend you work under your puppy’s threshold. We define “threshold” as the point at which a stimulus is of sufficient intensity for the puppy to exhibit the given behavior. For example, working under your puppy’s jumping threshold means that the intensity of the exercise is such that your puppy is not jumping when working on the exercise.

You will also come across the term “release word.” A release word is used for behaviors that have a defined beginning and end. For example, when you are teaching your puppy “stay”, your puppy is learning that cue “stay” means to maintain his/her position until you release him/her. Examples of good release words are “free,” “all done,” “release, “ and “break.” In puppy camp, we use your release word if you have provided it to us, if not, we default to “free.”

Lastly, some of the exercises are accompanied by short videos. We are proud to say that all the puppies that you can see in the videos attended Ahimsa’s Puppy Day Training program.

Watch the Full Video Playlist here and find the exercise steps below:

1. BITING INHIBITION (PLAY BITING)

What is your puppy learning? Nipping, mouthing and biting are forms of social play in puppies. The exercises below will teach your puppy not to playfully bite you in exciting situations. To create the habit of not play-biting people, you will have to treat playful interactions with people as one of the exercises below, and/or use environmental management to prevent your puppy from practicing play-biting.

EXERCISE 1.1. PETTING

Read these instructions before you start

Keep your puppy under his/her threshold for biting during this exercise. You can achieve this by adjusting the duration and intensity of your petting, and/or by clicking/treating frequently enough so your puppy does not get an opportunity to bite.
If your puppy bites you immediately disengage from him/her by folding your arms and dramatically turning your head away from him/her. If your puppy continues to bite, leave his/her space immediately.
Perform 5-7 repetitions in a row, pausing between each repetition in order to reset your puppy’s arousal, then give your puppy a break.

Levels

Reach towards your puppy but stop your hand before your puppy would bite you, then immediately click/treat your puppy for not biting you. Stay on this level, gradually reaching closer and closer until you are able to briefly and gently touch your puppy without him/her biting your hand.
Calmly pet your puppy. Click/treat him/her before s/he gets an opportunity to bite. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are petting your puppy with a frequency that ensures your puppy does not bite. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Make the petting more exciting by moving your hands more quickly or talking to your puppy. Click/treat him/her before s/he gets an opportunity to bite. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are petting your puppy with a frequency that ensures your puppy does not bite. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.

EXERCISE 1.2. RUNNING/JUMPING/WALKING

Read these instructions before you start

Keep your puppy not only under his/her threshold for biting, but also for jumping and barking during this exercise. You can achieve this by adjusting the duration and intensity of your activity, and/or by clicking/treating frequently enough so your puppy does not get an opportunity to bite.
If your puppy bites you, immediately disengage from him/her by folding your arms and dramatically turning your head away from him/her. If your puppy continues to bite, leave his/her space immediately.
Perform 5-7 repetitions in a row, pausing between each repetition in order to reset your puppy’s arousal, then give your puppy a break.

Levels

Walk around your puppy. Click/treat him/her before s/he gets an opportunity to bite, jump or bark. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach and as frequently as needed to ensure that your puppy does not bite, jump or bark. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Walk around your puppy wearing pants or shoes that are slightly more tempting to your puppy. Click/treat him/her before s/he gets an opportunity to bite, jump or bark. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach and as frequently as needed to ensure that your puppy does not bite, jump or bark. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds. If walking is too much for your puppy, start just by standing in his/her space or on the other side of a barrier to make it easier on him/her.
Run. Click/treat your puppy before s/he gets an opportunity to bite, jump or bark. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach and as frequently as needed to ensure that your puppy does not bite, jump or bark. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Jump. Click/treat your puppy before s/he gets an opportunity to bite, jump or bark. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach and as frequently as needed to ensure that your puppy does not bite, jump or bark. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.

EXERCISE 1.3. TUG WITH RULES

One of the advantages of playing tug with rules is that it teaches your puppy bite inhibition because the game ends if your puppy bites your hand, even accidentally.

Read these instructions before you start

Keep the tugging part to 5 seconds or less to make sure your puppy does not get over aroused.
Allow your puppy to do most of the pulling and tug gently from side to side. (Up and down tugging can lead to spinal injury.)
Let go of the toy if your puppy is tugging too hard to prevent tooth damage and/or misalignment.
End successful play (i.e. play during which your puppy did not bite your hand) with “drop it” or, if your puppy does not know “drop it” yet, simply say “give” and offer your puppy a treat in the exchange for the toy.
If while tugging your puppy’s teeth touch your skin, yipe and disengage from your puppy immediately by folding your arms and dramatically turning your head away. Then wait at least 5 seconds or until your puppy is calm before resuming the game.

Levels

1. Teach the rules. Ask your puppy to sit. When s/he sits, say “get it” and offer him/her a toy to start the game. Tug gently for about 5 seconds, then end the play and ask your puppy to sit. When s/he sits, resume the play by saying “get it” and offering the toy. Repeat 5-7 times.
2. Gradually add challenges. You can increase the challenge by increasing the time that your puppy has to sit before you resume the game or by tugging for a longer period of time. Add only one challenge at a time and make sure your puppy is successful before combining them together.

2. BITING INHIBITION (FRUSTRATION BITING)

What is your puppy learning? Your puppy is learning to calmly and willingly accept situations that might be otherwise frustrating or unpleasant to him/her and lead to frustration biting.

EXERCISE 2.1. GOTCHAS

This exercise will help your puppy to calmly accept being grabbed by the harness or collar, or being picked up.

Read these instructions before you start

To create a positive association with an unpleasant event, such as a harness grab, the order of events is important. The unpleasant event (e.g. harness grab) has to happen first, and be immediately followed by the pleasant event (e.g. yummy treat).
Make sure to treat your puppy before s/he gets the opportunity to bite you.

Levels

When your puppy is calm and there are no distractions around, say “gotcha” and then gently grab his/her harness or collar, or pick him/her up. Treat and immediately release your puppy.
Gradually hold your puppy for longer durations, treating her/him as frequently as needed to make sure s/he is calm and not biting. Start with 1-3 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Practice levels 1 and 2 around distractions and in your puppy’s different arousal levels (i.e.calm, excited).

EXERCISE 2.2. BODY HANDLING

This exercise will help your puppy to readily accept body handling. This can be further expanded into grooming and veterinary procedures.

Read these instructions before you start

Your puppy’s participation in this exercise should always be voluntary.
Eager participation of your puppy in this exercise is an indicator that you are moving through the exercises at the right pace.
If your puppy is not feeling safe or comfortable with the exercise, give your puppy a break. Signs that your puppy is not feeling safe or comfortable with the exercise can be overt such as moving away or pulling away the body part that you are touching. Signs of stress and anxiety can also be subtle such as lip licking and yawning, or displacement behaviors such as the sudden urge to groom his/her groin area, or sniff the ground or objects intensely. If you see these signs, stop the exercise, give your puppy a break. The next time start with the level that your puppy was comfortable with and build from there more gradually.
Perform 5-10 repetitions in a row, pausing between each repetition in order to reset your puppy’s arousal. Then give your puppy a break.

Levels

Reach towards your puppy’s body part such as the tail, mouth, front paw, back paw, head, belly, teeth, or nose. Click as you are reaching then treat.
Touch your puppy’s body part gently for 1 second. Click as you are touching it, then treat immediately.
Increase the duration of your gentle touch starting with 1-3 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Increase the intensity of your touch, e.g. gentle grab, light pressure while touching, gently moving your thumb. Keep the duration to 1 to 2 seconds.
Gradually combine the intensity and duration of your touch.

ANTI-JUMPING EXERCISES

What is your puppy learning? Not to jump on people. However, to create the habit of not jumping on people, you will have to treat all encounters with people as one of the exercises below and/or use environmental management, such as baby gates or having your puppy on leash to prevent him/her from jumping.

Read these instructions before you start any of the anti-jumping exercises

It is important to keep your puppy under his/her threshold for jumping during this exercise to create ample opportunities for him/her to practice good behaviors (all four on the floor or sit depending on the exercise) that can be reinforced. You can do this by adjusting the duration and intensity of the exercises and/or the frequency of the clicking/treating.
If your puppy jumps, immediately disengage from him/her by folding your arms and dramatically turning your head away from him/her. If your puppy continues to jump, leave his/her space immediately.
Exercise 3.2 is not suitable for puppies who are shy or afraid of people. They might refuse to sit because they do not feel safe to do so in the present of strangers, and they might learn that they do not like to sit because if they do strangers reach towards them and pet them. Those puppies have to learn first that it is safe to be around strangers without strangers interacting with them.

EXERCISE 3.1. GREETINGS – ALL FOUR ON THE FLOOR

This exercise will teach your puppy to keep all four on the floor and not jump when s/he is approached by a person, and while the person is in his/her space.

Levels

Approach your puppy calmly, and click/treat him/her before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach and as frequently as needed to ensure that your puppy does not jump. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds, and so on.
Gradually build more excitement into your greetings. The possible progressions could be: faster friendly approach, calmly talking to your puppy, talking in a higher pitched voice, and exciting petting.

EXERCISE 3.2. GREETINGS – DEFAULT SIT

This activity will teach your puppy to sit when approached by a person and maintain the sit for as long as the person is in his/her space.

Pre-requirement: Sit on a verbal cue or hand signal.

Levels

1. Teach the behavior. Calmly approach your puppy and cue him/her to sit before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Click and area when s/he does.
2. Default sit. Calmly approach your puppy and wait 2-3 seconds before cuing him/her to sit. If s/he sits before you ask for it click/treat, if not cue him/her to sit before s/he jumps, click and treat when s/he does. When your puppy sits without you asking him/her to do so you are ready for the next step.
3. Duration of default sit. Calmly approach your puppy, click/treat when s/he sits. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are interacting with your puppy (e.g. petting calmly, talking calmly to your puppy) with a frequency needed to ensure that your puppy stays in sit. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds, and so on.
4. Gradually build more excitement into your greetings. The possible progressions could be: faster friendly approach, calmly talking to your puppy, talking in a higher pitched voice, and exciting petting.

EXERCISE 3.3. RUNNING/JUMPING/WALKING

This activity will teach your puppy to control his/her arousal and keep all four on the floor when someone nearby is running, jumping or walking.

Read these instructions before you start

This can be an exciting exercise for a puppy. Therefore, you want to make sure that you keep your puppy not only under his/her threshold for jumping, but also for biting and barking. To keep your puppy successful, you will need to adjust the duration and intensity of the activities and/or the frequency of clicks and treats.
Do 5-7 repetitions in a row, pausing between each repetition in order to reset your puppy’s arousal, then give your puppy a break.

Levels

Calmly walk around your puppy, and click/treat him/her before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach with a frequency needed to ensure that your puppy does not jump. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Calmly walk around your puppy holding an exciting item in your hand (e.g. towel, toy, paper tissue, plate). Click/treat before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach with a frequency needed to ensure that your puppy does not jump. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Run around your puppy, and click/treat before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach with a frequency needed to ensure that your puppy does not jump. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.
Jump around your puppy, and click/treat before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Continue clicking and treating for as long as you are in your puppy’s reach with a frequency needed to ensure that your puppy does not jump. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds.

4. DEMAND/ATTENTION BARKING

What is your puppy learning? Not to bark at you for attention or to demand things from you such as food, toys, and play. However, to curb demand barking you will also have to use environmental management to prevent him/her from barking in situations in which your puppy has the tendency to bark. You can use puzzles, or healthy longer lasting treats to keep your puppy occupied in those situations. In addition, you can reinforce “quiet” using real-life rewards such as attention, play, toys, puzzles, meals, or access to fun spaces. At first be ready to reward your puppy quickly, catching the moment of quiet before any barking occurs. As your puppy grasps the concept that quiet gives him/her what s/he wants, ask for a longer duration of quiet before you reward.

Read these instructions before you start

It is important that you keep your puppy under his/her threshold for barking during this exercise. You can do this by making the situation less exciting, using higher value treats to reward with, rewarding more frequently, and/or keeping the training activity shorter.
If your puppy happens to bark, completely disengage from him/her; go do something else. This makes it clear to your puppy that the demand barking is not working.

Levels

Click and treat your puppy for quiet in situations in which s/he has a tendency to bark. Click and treat your puppy before she starts barking and continue rewarding as frequently as needed for as long as your puppy is in that particular situation.
Gradually decrease the frequency of your clicks/treats. Start with 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds, and so on.

5. COUNTER-SURFING

What is your puppy learning? Not to jump on tables and kitchen counters. However, to curb counter-surfing successfully, you must minimize the number of occurrences of this behavior in general, and keep your tables and counters clean so if it happens there is nothing for your puppy to grab and find interesting and rewarding, e.g. food, paper tissues, or socks.

Read these instructions before you start

It is important that you keep your puppy under his/her threshold for jumping during this exercise. You can achieve this by clicking/treating frequently enough so your puppy does not get an opportunity to jump, using higher value treats and/or by having him/her on the leash.
If your puppy happens to jump, don’t give him/her any attention. Instead quickly remove the item from your puppy’s reach before s/he grabs it.
If despite your best efforts your puppy continues jumping, put him/her on a leash and start at a distance from the table or counter where your puppy can see the item but cannot reach it. Quietly observe your puppy and click/treat as soon as s/he looks away from the item. Continue clicking and treating as frequently as you need to ensure that your puppy does not pull towards the table or counter.

Levels

1. Place an interesting but not too exciting item such as an empty plate on a table or counter. Start clicking/treating your puppy as soon as s/he notices it but before s/he gets an opportunity to jump. Deliver your treats on the floor. Continue clicking and treating every 1-2 seconds to help your puppy understand that not going for the item is the choice s/he wants to make.
2. Gradually, building on success, reduce the rate of reinforcement to 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds, and so on.
3. You can build more challenges by clicking/treating less frequently, making the item on the table gradually more appealing, taking the leash off, or increasing your own distance between the table and your puppy. Add one of these components at a time. Each time you start working on a new component, temporarily increase the frequency of your clicks/treats.

6. DOWN

What is your puppy learning? To lay down on a hand signal (palm facing downward) and a verbal cue “down.”

Read these instructions before you start

If your puppy has a hard time lying down on the floor, start with a surface that is more comfortable, such as your puppy’s bed.

Levels

Teach the behavior. Lure your puppy into a down position. Click/treat when his/her belly touches the ground. Practice until your puppy lies down each time you lure him/her.
Put the behavior on a hand signal (palm facing downward). Pretend to take a treat from your treat pouch and hold it in your hand. Make exactly the same motion with your hand as you did when you were luring. Click/treat your puppy when s/he lies down. Practice until your puppy reliably lies down each time you give him/her your hand signal.
Name the behavior. Say “down,” wait 2 seconds then give your puppy the hand signal. Click/treat when s/he lies down.
Generalize behavior to different situations and environments.

7. DROP IT

What is your puppy learning? To let go of the item that s/he is holding in her/his mouth upon hearing the words “drop it.”

Read these instructions before you start

Say “drop it” only once so you don’t accidentally teach your puppy that in order to respond, s/he needs to hear it multiple times. If your puppy does not release the item within 5-7 seconds after you said “drop it” make a kissy sound to prompt the behavior, and next time make it easier on your puppy by using a less exciting item or by practicing level 1 of the exercise for a little longer.
Use high value treats during this exercise. The value of treats has to be higher than the value of the item that your puppy is holding.

Levels

Without any item present, teach your puppy that the words “drop it” mean yummy treats. Simply, say “drop it,” wait 2 seconds. Then toss a few small but delicious treats on the floor, and point out the treats to your puppy so that your puppy gets accustomed to your hands coming in.
Use an interesting but not too exciting item. When your puppy holds the item in his/her mouth, say “drop it,” click your puppy as s/he is releasing the item, then treat.
Gradually add the challenge. Start with items that are just a perfect challenge for your puppy to drop them and gradually build towards items that s/he has a hard time to relinquish.
Practice in different environments and situations. Think of all the environments and situations that you would like your puppy to drop items that you do not want in their mouth.

8. GO TO BED

What is your puppy learning? That the phrase “go to bed” means to go and lie down on his/her bed, and stay there until released.

Read these instructions before you start

If your puppy keeps getting up before you release her/him, you will need to treat her/him more frequently in order to maintain his/her position and/or increase the value of your treats.

Levels

Teach the behavior. Lure your puppy on his/her bed and into a down position. Click/treat when your puppy lies down. Drop treats between his/her paws continuously anywhere from 3 to 10 seconds. Before your puppy gets up, release him/her. Say your release cue (e.g. free or release), and wait for 2 seconds. If, within those 2 seconds your puppy gets up, click/treat. If s/he doesn’t, show him/her a treat, toss it away from him/her, and click as s/he is getting up to get it.
Put the behavior on hand signal. Stand near the bed just as you did when you were luring your puppy. Get your puppy on the bed and into a down position without a treat in your hand, but holding your hand in the same way and doing the same motion that you did when you were luring your puppy. Click/treat when s/he lies down on the bed. Continue dropping treats between his/her paws as frequently as needed to keep him/her in the down position. Release your puppy after a few seconds as described in level 1. Stay on this level until your puppy reliably lies down on the bed each time you give him/her your hand signal.
Name the behavior using either: a) Cue transfer: Say, “go to bed,” wait 2 seconds, then give your puppy the hand signal. Click/treat when s/he lies down on the bed and continue to drop treats between his/her paws as frequently as needed to keep him/her in the down position. Release him/her after a few seconds as described in Level 1; b) Labeling: If your puppy heads back for the bed and lies down every time you release him/her, use it to your advantage. Say, “go to bed” as s/he is stepping towards or lying down on the bed. Click/treat when s/he lies down on the bed and continue to drop treats between his/her paws as frequently as needed to keep him/her in the down position. Release him/her after a few seconds as described in Level 1.
Build the duration of the down position on the bed by gradually increasing the time intervals between the treats. Start with 1-2 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds, and so on. To set your puppy up for success make sure that you alternate between almost too easy, just right and almost too difficult time intervals between the treats. Release your puppy before s/he gets up as described in Level 1.

9. LEAVE IT

What is your puppy learning? That the words “leave it” mean to disengage from the activity (e.g. digging, sniffing) or item of his/her interest (e.g. person or another dog, food).

Read these instructions before you start any of the “leave It” exercises

Say “leave it” only once so you don’t accidentally teach your puppy that in order to respond, s/he needs to hear it multiple times. If s/he does not respond within 5 seconds make a kissy sound to prompt the behavior that you want.
If you need to prompt the behavior from your puppy three times consecutively, it is an indication that it is too difficult for your puppy and you have to make it easier for him/her to be successful. You can practice further away from the item or practice around items that are not as interesting to your puppy
Use high value treats for this exercise. The value of the treats has to be higher than the value of the item or activity that you are asking your puppy to disengage from.

EXERCISE 9.1. LEAVE IT – TREAT IN HAND

Levels

Teach the behavior. Present your fist with a treat to your puppy 1 or 2 feet above his nose. Click and give your puppy a treat from the opposite hand when s/he looks away from your fist. Repeat until your puppy reliably looks away from your fist within 2 seconds after you present it to him/her.
Name the behavior. As you are presenting your hand to your puppy, say “leave it” once. Click/treat when s/he looks away from your hand.
Gradually increase the challenges. The possible progression could be: closed fist above puppy’s nose level, open hand above puppy’s nose level, open hand on the floor, a treat on the floor (be ready to cover it), dropping a treat and rolling a treat. Pick up the “leave it” treat after each repetition.

EXERCISE 9.2. LEAVE IT – REORIENT TOWARDS ME

Levels

Teach your puppy that the words “leave it” mean to reorient towards you. Start without any interesting items or distractions. Say, “leave it,” and click/treat when your puppy reorients towards you. Stay on this level until your puppy looks at you predictably within 2 seconds.
As soon as your puppy notices something interesting say “leave it”, click when s/he reorients towards you then treat in front of you. To ensure success, start at a distance from the “leave it” item at which your puppy is interested but can easily reorient towards you when s/he hears “leave it.” If needed, start with your puppy on the leash to prevent him/her from getting too close to what s/he is interested in. If your puppy tries to pull towards the item simply stand like a tree, hold the leash steady, without pulling or jerking on it, and calmly wait until your puppy reorients towards you.
Gradually increase the challenges. The possible progressions could be: having your puppy closer to the item, adding more exciting items/situations to disengage from, working without the leash or barrier (if your puppy is ready for it).

10. LOOSE LEASH WALKING

What is your puppy learning? To walk by your side without pulling, jumping or biting the leash.

Read these instructions before you start

Keep your puppy under his/her threshold for biting, jumping and pulling. You can achieve this by clicking/treating your puppy as frequently as needed to keep him/her calm and by your side, and/or practicing further away from distractions.
Placing the treat by your foot on the ground after you click, but before your puppy gets ahead of you, will help him/her to understand not to get ahead of you when working on Level 1.
The fastest way to get ahead of your puppy if s/he gets in front of you is to start walking the opposite way.
Practice on your walks in half minute to 3 minute chunks of time. During your walks, make sure that your puppy has ample opportunities to observe and explore his/her environment safely so that s/he can learn about the surrounding world to prevent possible future fear issues.

Levels

Follow me. Take one step away from your puppy without pulling him/her on the leash. Click your puppy as s/he moves towards you, then place the treat by your foot on the ground. Make a step forward while your puppy is eating the treat from the floor and wait for your puppy to start moving towards you again; do not pull on the leash. Repeat until your puppy follows you around with ease and is not getting ahead of you.
Click/treat your puppy for walking by your side. Start with clicking/treating him/her every step you take to build a commitment to walk by your side.
Gradually increase the number of steps that your puppy walks by your side before you click/treat. Start with 1-3 steps, then 2-5 steps, then 3-10 steps, and so on. Make sure that you don’t always make it more difficult for your puppy. Sometimes make it almost too hard, sometimes just right and sometimes almost too easy, always building on your puppy’s success.
Add distractions. To set your puppy up for success, start at a distance from the distraction at which your puppy notices it, but can successfully maintain his/her position by your side if you are clicking/treating. Click/treat as soon as your puppy looks at the distraction, but before s/he gets the opportunity to leave your side.
Name the behavior. You can add your walking cue and release cue when you are 90% certain that your puppy will stay by your side for as long as you are clicking/treating. Say your walking cue such as “let’s go,” click and treat your puppy as frequently as needed to keep him/her by your side, then when you are ready, give your release cue such as “go sniff.” Your puppy will learn that your walking cue means to walk by your side until s/he is released, at which point s/he can go and explore within the leash’s reach.

11. RECALL

What is your puppy learning? To return to you when you use the verbal cue “come.”

Read these instructions before you start

Don’t say “come” if you are calling your puppy to you because you are going to do something unpleasant from his/her perspective, e.g. trimming nails, giving him/her a bath, putting a harness on if s/he does not like it. This can poison the cue “come” and make it less likely for your puppy to come to you in the future.
Do not always end the fun with “come.” Send your puppy back to whatever s/he was doing before you called her/him about 80% of the time. This way, s/he doesn’t make the connection that if s/he comes to you, the fun is over, for example call your puppy in from the backyard and then let him/her go back out again.
Do not ask your puppy to come if s/he is not responding to his/her name or if you know that s/he is not going to come. However, make a mental note of it; you can gradually start teaching him/her to come to you in those situations.
If you need to get your puppy further away from you or slightly distracted when practicing “come”, say “find it” and toss a treat on the floor, wait until your puppy is done eating the treat before you start.

EXERCISE 11.1. COME

Pre-requirement: Name Game

Levels

Teach your puppy what the word “come” means. Stand 2 to 5 feet away from your puppy. Say his/her name once. When s/he reorients to you and is committed to coming towards you, say “come” once. Click your puppy while s/he is moving towards you, and deliver the treat right in front of you.
Gradually add challenges. You can increase the challenge by standing further away from your puppy or by adding more distractions. Add only one challenge at a time and make sure your puppy is successful before combining them together.

EXERCISE 11.2. RUNAWAY COME

Puppies love running and chasing. This exercise turns “come” into an exciting game, thereby increasing the reliability and speed of your puppy’s recall.

Pre-requirement: Name Game

Read these instructions before you start

If your puppy has a tendency to jump at or bite you when you are running, keep the running part short, just enough to get your puppy excited but stop before s/he catches up with you. Toss a treat on the floor as s/he is arriving but before s/he would jump or bite.

Levels

Teach your puppy what the word “come” means. Stand a couple of feet away from your puppy. Say his/her name once. When you have your puppy’s attention, start running away. Say “come” as you are running, click your puppy when s/he starts running, and treat her arrival.
Gradually add challenges. You can increase the challenge by standing further away from your puppy or by adding more distractions. Add only one component at a time and make sure your puppy is successful before combining them together.

12. NAME GAME

What is your puppy learning? To pay attention to you when you call his/her name.

Read these instructions before you start

If your puppy does not turn to you, do not repeat his/her name. Make a kissy sound or lightly touch your puppy’s side to prompt the behavior of reorienting towards you.
If you need to prompt the behavior from your puppy three times in a row you have to make the situation in which you practice easier for your puppy, e.g. practice in a less distracting environment, use higher value treats, or stay closer to your puppy.

Levels

Prompt and label the behavior. Say your puppy’s name once and click/treat when s/he reorients towards you.
Gradually add challenges. You can increase the challenge by standing further away from your puppy or by adding more distractions. Add only one challenge at a time and make sure your puppy is successful before combining them together.

13. SIT

What is your puppy learning? To sit on a hand signal (arm parallel to ground and palm facing upward) and verbal cue “sit.”

Levels

Teach the behavior. Lure your puppy to sit. Click/treat when s/he sits. Practice until your puppy sits each time you lure him/her.
Put the behavior on a hand signal (arm parallel to ground and palm facing upward). Pretend to take a treat from your treat pouch and hold it in your hand. Make exactly the same motion with your hand as you did when you were luring. Click/treat your puppy when s/he sits. Practice until your puppy reliably sits each time you give him/her your hand signal.
Name the behavior. Say “sit” once, wait 2 seconds and then give your puppy the hand signal. Click/treat when s/he sits.
Generalize the behavior to different situations and environments.

14. STAY

What is your puppy learning? To maintain the position (sit or down) s/he is in when the verbal cue “stay” is given, until you release her/him. There are three components to a successful stay: duration (time that your puppy has to stay in the position), distractions and distance (you moving away from your puppy).

Read these instructions before you start any of the “stay” exercises

Start in a low distraction environment. Work on duration first, then distractions, and add distance last.
Before you add the “stay” cue you have to figure out how to keep your puppy in position until you release him/her. You can do it by treating more frequently, working with fewer distractions, and/or improving your timing around distractions. Add the “stay” cue only when you are 90% sure that your puppy will hold the position until YOU release him/her. That way, your puppy is learning that “stay” means to maintain the position until s/he is released by you and not until s/he releases himself/herself.
If your puppy gets up three times in a row before YOU have released him/her, say your release word as s/he is getting up but do not click/treat. Your puppy is, however, telling you that the exercise is too difficult for him/her and you will have to make it easier for him/her to be successful. You can do this by, for example, treating more frequently, reducing distractions, and/or decreasing the distance between you and your puppy.

EXERCISE 14.1. STAY-DURATION

Build your puppy’s desire to hold the position. Ask your puppy to sit or lie down. When s/he does, click and then treat. Continue treating without clicking every 1-2 seconds so your puppy has no desire to get up. Release your puppy before s/he gets up. Stop treating, say your release cue (e.g. free or release) and wait for 2 seconds. If within those 2 seconds your puppy gets up, click/treat. If s/he doesn’t, show him/her a treat, toss it away from him/her and then click as s/he is getting up to get it.
Build duration by gradually increasing the time interval between treats. Start with 1 second, then 1-3 seconds, then 2-5 seconds, then 3-10 seconds, and so on. Make sure that you don’t always make it more difficult for your puppy. Sometimes, make it almost too hard, sometimes just right, and sometimes almost too easy. Release your puppy before s/he gets up as described in level 1.
Add “stay” cue when you are successfully releasing your puppy 90% of the time. After your puppy assumes the sit or down position, say “stay” once, then treat your puppy at the frequency needed to keep him/her in the position until you release him/her as described in Level 1.

EXERCISE 14.2. STAY-DISTRACTIONS

Pre-requirement: Duration of approximately 5 seconds between treats.

Read these instructions before you start

Start at a distance from the distraction and/or with the intensity of distractions at which your puppy notices it, but can successfully maintain his/her position if you treat him/her.

Levels

Ask your puppy to sit or lie down. When s/he does, click/treat. Work on your duration as described in the above Stay-Duration exercise until the distraction appears. Treat your puppy as soon as s/he notices the distraction but before she gets up, and continue treating for as long as the distraction is present and your puppy is interested in it. To release your puppy, use his/her release cue as described in the Stay–Duration exercise.
Gradually increase the duration between your puppy noticing the distraction and you treating him/her. Start with 1 second. Make sure that you don’t always make it more difficult for your puppy. Sometimes make it almost harder, sometimes just right, and sometimes almost too easy.
Add “stay” cue when you are successfully releasing your puppy 90% of the time. After your puppy assumes the sit or down position, say “stay” once, then treat your puppy at the frequency needed to keep him/her in the position until you release him/her as described in Level 1.

EXERCISE 14.3. STAY-DISTANCE

Pre-requirement: Duration of approximately 5-10 seconds between the treats and around distractions present in the environment that you are training in.

Levels

Ask your puppy to sit or lie down. When s/he does, click/treat. Shift your weight backwards and treat your puppy for holding his/her position. Repeat several times. Then, before your puppy gets up, release him/her as described in Stay- Duration exercise.
Make a small step away from your puppy. Come right back and treat your puppy for holding his/her position. Repeat several times. Then, before your puppy gets up, release him/her as described in Stay- Duration exercise.
Build distance gradually, in small steps. Make sure you don’t always make it more difficult for your puppy. Sometimes make it almost too hard, sometimes just right, and sometimes almost too easy. When you are done, give your puppy his/her release cue as described in Stay- Duration exercise above.
Add “stay” cue when you are successfully releasing your puppy 90% of the time. After your puppy assumes the sit or down position, say “stay” once, then treat your puppy at the frequency needed to keep him/her in the position until you release him/her as described in Stay- Duration exercise.
Combine distance and duration. When first combining these two components, set very easy criteria for each.

15. TOUCH

What is your puppy learning? To touch his/her nose to your hand on a hand signal and the verbal cue “touch.” Among other uses, “touch” is great for recall because puppies usually love it and they have to come all the way to you to touch your hand.

Read these instructions before you start

Say “touch” only once, and then give your puppy about 5 seconds to do it. If s/he does not, simply put your hand back behind your back and next time make it easier, e.g. present your hand closer to his/her nose, move away from distractions.

Levels

Teach the behavior. Choose a hand signal – either a fist or your index and middle finger pointing out together, the rest of your fingers pressed together in your palm. Present your hand signal one inch from your puppy’s nose. Click/treat when s/he touches your hand. Repeat until your puppy reliably touches your hand when it is presented to him/her.
Name the behavior. Say “touch” once, wait 2 seconds, and then present your hand to your puppy. Click/treat when s/he touches your hand.
Gradually add challenges. You can make it more challenging by increasing the distance between you and your puppy and/or by adding distractions. Master one challenge at a time before combining them together.

16. BARRIER FRUSTRATION

What is your puppy learning? Puppies with barrier frustration may be dog and people friendly but exhibit reactive behaviors such as growling, barking, and lunging when the barrier is preventing them from interactions with them. This exercise will help your puppy learn to stay calm and not get frustrated when the fence or leash is preventing him/her from greeting other dogs or people.

Read these instructions before you start

To successfully modify your puppy’s behavior you have to make sure that you make environmental changes that will prevent getting your puppy into situations in which s/he exhibits barrier frustration.
Start at the distance at which your puppy can notice the trigger but does not bark or get fixated on the trigger, and still respond to the sound of the clicker. Over time you will be able to reduce the distance.
Delivering treats on the ground

Levels

Click as soon as your puppy notices the trigger but before s/he barks, invite her/him to move away with you then treat after 3-5 steps, and continue walking away from the trigger. If your puppy looks back at the trigger, repeat. When your puppy turns back towards you as soon as s/he hears the clicker and moves happily away with you, you are ready for the next step.
Give your puppy 2 seconds after s/he sees the trigger. If your puppy looks at you or away from the trigger click, move 3-5 steps away, treat, and continue walking away from the trigger. If your puppy does not look back at you within those 2 seconds go back to step 1. Click as s/he is looking at the trigger, move 3-5 steps away, treat and continue your walk away from the trigger.
When your puppy reliably looks away from the trigger, and happily moves away from it, decrease the distance and repeat steps 1 and 2.

17. BARKING AT TRIGGERS (E.G. PEOPLE, DOGS, or INANIMATE OBJECTS)

What is your puppy learning? Fearful puppies often exhibit reactive behaviors such as growling, barking, and lunging when they notice “the scary monster”. This exercise will help your puppy learn prosocial behavior – learning to stay calm, check in with you, how to greet politely when they do want to interact and to move away to signal when they do not want to interact. Learning to read your puppy’s body language will be crucial for successful exposure to the trigger.

Read these instructions before you start

Avoid exposing your puppy to the triggers outside of your training sessions to prevent forming negative associations with the trigger and practicing unwanted behaviors.
Start at the distance at which your puppy can notice the trigger but does not bark or get fixated on the trigger, has a loose leash and still responds to the sound of the clicker. Over time you will be able to reduce the distance.
Placing treats on the ground to help your puppy disengage and encourage sniffing which is a calming behavior.

Levels

Click as soon as your puppy notices the trigger but before s/he barks, invite her/him to move away with you then treat after 3-5 steps, and continue walking away from the trigger. If your puppy looks back at the trigger, repeat. When your puppy turns back towards you as soon as s/he hears the clicker and moves happily away with you, you are ready for the next step.
Give your puppy 2 seconds after s/he sees the trigger. If your puppy looks at you or away from the trigger click, move 3-5 steps away, treat, and continue walking away from the trigger. If your puppy does not look back at you within those 2 seconds go back to step 1. Click as s/he is looking at the trigger, move 3-5 steps away, treat and continue your walk away from the trigger.
When your puppy reliably looks away from the trigger, and happily moves away from it, decrease the distance and repeat steps 1 and 2.