1. Wait for the dog to interact with you, scratching the body part that is closest to you first, like the dog’s side.
2. Pet for no more than 5 seconds (less if the dog is shy or not in your family)
3. Stop and wait for the dog to turn or move toward you, asking for more.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3.

You also need a way to tell your dog to stop asking for petting. If you are done and the dog is still interested, give an All Done hand signal. For example, I show that both hands are empty. Then ignore the dog for a little bit so that the meaning of the All Done cue is clear.

Tips and illustrations from this video are from the Official Ahimsa Dog Training Manual. Information by Grisha Stewart, illustrations by Lili Chin.

Hi folks, we have a few important announcements:

1. Toxic algae in Green Lake (Seattle)

Please do not let your dogs drink from the lake right now. It is poisonous. http://tinyurl.com/8kkgfjj

2. Vote for Ahimsa! Every vote counts.

We would really appreciate your vote for Ahimsa in the Best of Western Washington Contest. Voting ends very soon, so please vote today. If you have a chance to also leave a comment, that would be great! The more specific, the better. We are close to winning again, but we need some more votes:

http://doggiezen.com/vote

If you vote for us, you can use the coupon code VOTE at checkout to save 10% off of Grisha’s new book, the “Ahimsa Dog Training Manual” – as a paperback or ebook. (Okay, you can use it if you don’t vote, too, but we’d still appreciate the vote!) The coupon is good for 4 days, which is when the voting ends. http://doggiezen.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=MCH-0207

3. Have a Safe and Happy Halloween

Halloween is a fun time for people, but it can be hard for dogs. Please keep the candy in a safe place away from your dog and give your dog a safe and happy place to be when the trick-or-treaters come. Stuff several Kongs in advance and pop them in the freezer. Use low-sodium chicken broth, boiled or baked pumpkin, squash, sweet potato, or wet dog food (or all mixed together). Put up a baby gate or keep your dog in a room away from the front door (preferably not alone) if your dog or puppy might escape, so that you don’t have to pay as much attention. If you have a dog with aggression issues, turn out your lights or go outside with your candy so that the doorbell doesn’t ring.

Thanks again for voting at http://doggiezen.com/vote – only 4 days left!

The happy Ahimsa Staff

_________________________________
Ahimsa Dog Training, LLC
902 NW 49th Street, Seattle, WA 98107
Phone: 206-364-4072 Fax: 206-524-6039
Website: http://DoggieZen.com

Award-winning training by professionals who care about people and dogs!

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We can’t really prevent all of the problems our dogs encounter. Let’s face it, they don’t live as long as we do, so eventually, we’ll lose the battle. But we can fight for them as much as we can along the way.

Here are some things I’ve done to make my dogs’ lives safer:

1. ID your dog. Tags are simple, but how the heck else will someone quickly know how to find me? Instead of a metal tag, I actually ordered collars embroidered with my phone number in big writing, so it can be seen from a distance, in case the dogs won’t let themselves be caught. Microchip your dog, and make sure your contact info is up-to-date with the chip company. I just updated mine, after realizing that I hadn’t done so since moving in 2003. Oops! p.s. The City of Seattle puts in Avid microchips, but you have to actually register your own info with Avid and pay a fee, or the chip is almost useless. There’s a whole different blog article on picking a good microchip. hint: I think it’s not Avid.
2. License with the city and keep your contact info current. We drilled a second hole in the license and sewed it onto the collar, so it can’t get caught on something and choke the dogs, and also so that it won’t jingle as we pass by yards with dogs. The less my dogs jingle, the less the other dogs bark!
3. Carpets. I love my hardwood floors, but the slippery surface is one reason that my own dog tore her ACL, and she needs traction to heal. Rugs are a dog’s best friend!! Ligaments tear over a long period of time, so even if your dog hasn’t injured herself (yet), count your blessings and still make sure there are plenty of rugs.
4. Vaccines. Take the advice of a vet you trust, but make sure your dogs are protected against disease and yet not over-vaccinated. Google the word “titers” and read books on vaccines if you want to learn more.
5. Training! Ok, that’s obvious to write on a dog training site, but it’s true. The most important training a dog can have is “come” and “stay.” Both are important. Building a strong relationship is really the most critical thing you can do, so don’t be so focused on getting your dog to come that you resort to punishment to *make* it happen. (p.s. that’s likely to backfire, anyway).
6. Real fence with an Airlock or fenced yard on all exits. Our front door doesn’t open out into the street. It opens into an airlock – a little patio with a little fence around it, with a gate. The doorbell is on the gate, which is locked. That way, if a delivery comes, we can go into the airlock to get the package without having to rely on the dogs to stay or hold them back. I may be a dog training geek, but my wife isn’t, so any time we can just make a foolproof system instead of relying on the dogs, that’s better. We humans are supposed to have the more powerful brains, so I figure we should use them. Real, secure fences are important: not invisible, and no holes! If you have a rental and can’t build a real airlock outside, you can make one with a few panels of an exercise pen inside the door. This is especially important if you have guests or a party.
7. Leash. In spaces where the dogs might encounter something dangerous, especially cars, your dog should be on leash. Even though Peanut wouldn’t leave me on a walk, and has an awesome recall, I don’t trust the environment of a busy street. He could be hit by a bicycle and freak out, a car could backfire, who knows what he might do? Most people who walk their dogs off leash can’t call their dogs away from other dogs, cats, or squirrels, and don’t seem to realize how dangerous it is. What if that other dog is aggressive or fearful? Even if your dog is friendly, it’s NOT FAIR to let them run up to dogs without the express permission of the other person.
8. Have a loose dog plan. If a loose dog runs up to your dog, have a plan. Here’s mine, for dogs that I don’t want to interact with Peanut. I shout, “call your dog!” with a big stop-sign hand signal toward the dog and then put Peanut in a sit-stay behind me. The other people usually shout “he’s friendly” and I repeat, “call your dog.” It’s just not fair for my on leash dog to be approached by an off-leash dog.

   I take the safety off of the can of Spray Shield in my pocket (partially to get it ready, partially to remind myself that it’s there). Next, I walk toward the other dog and throw a handful of treats. I either calmly walk away with Peanut or if the dog follows us, I body block to keep the dog away from him. If the dog acts aggressively, I can use the Spray Shield to repel him (It’s citronella spray, and I haven’t needed it on a walk yet, but have used it to break up dog fights at the park). This may not be the same as your plan, but whatever you do, have one, and rehearse.

There’s a lot more, like feeding them well without making them overweight, getting enough exercise, avoiding holiday hazards and bad foods with the words ‘animal,’ ‘by-product,’ or ‘digest,’ and understanding dogs’ body language, but these are some important safety tips. And of course, breathe, relax, and enjoy your dog. No matter what you do, you’re likely to outlive your dog, so don’t waste too much time focusing on danger. Just do what you can to make things more safe, and enjoy every day.

Related post: 8 Sure-Fire Ways to Shorten Your Dog’s Life.

But are sticks safe for dogs?

Last night, I talked about sticks with veterinarian Greg Combs of Lake Forest Park Animal Hospital, near Seattle. I mentioned giving sticks to my dog, and he actually cringed. Uh oh. I quickly ran through the ways that I make sticks more safe for Peanut, and he approved of those, adding on some more points to consider that I hadn’t thought of. The list is below, so that you can help keep your dog safe around sticks.

Here are some common ways that dogs can injure themselves with sticks:

• Impaling on the stick. To me, this is the most obvious way a dog can hurt himself with a stick. Visualize a person throwing the stick, the dog getting there just as it lands, and stabbing himself with the stick on arrival.  This can injure several spots – in the mouth, eye, throat, eek.  You get the picture.
• Knocked on the head with the stick. This can happen with any toy, but sticks are hard and sharp.  If a dog gets there before the stick lands, it can fall on her head or hit her elsewhere on the body.
• Swallowing stick pieces.  If a dog swallows bits of a stick, it can basically plug the dog up.  Plus, sticks are sharp, so you get internal injuries, to boot.
• Stick Stuck in the mouth. I hadn’t thought of this one, but Dr. Combs said that he’s seen at least a few dogs have a stick wedged into the roof of their mouth, stabbing into the soft palette.  Ouch.

There are probably other dangers, for example, if the stick itself is something that’s toxic to dogs.  Somebody correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the trees in Seattle are safe in that way, but not necessarily the shrubs. At least sticks don’t wear down your dog’s teeth, like tennis balls and bones.

Safety tips.  This is what you can do to ensure safe stick fun for your dog.

• Impaling on the stick. ‘Dead retrieves’ only – the stick is down before the dog goes to get it. Whenever I throw the stick, I put Peanut in a stay first. I release him only when the stick is safely on the ground.
• Knocked on the head with the stick. Same as above, dead retrieves only.
• Swallowing stick pieces.  If your dog chews up and swallows sticks, don’t let him chew on them.  You may need to avoid fetching altogether and make sticks off limits, or you might be able to get away with only using sticks for fetching, as above.  Only fetch with pieces that are big enough to not be swallowed.
• Stick Stuck in the mouth. Same as above – no chewing/swallowing and only big pieces.

Play with any toy that can be chewed up should be supervised, and that includes sticks, as well as rope toys and balls.

As a side story, I have a confession that I’m a terrible dog mom. I’m sharing it so that you might avoid doing it yourself, although playing fetch with a bouncy ball may be so dumb that nobody else would try it.  Several years ago, I bought a 1.5″ rubber bouncy ball from a vending machine. I thought I was clever, because the ball fit nicely inside my pocket.

We played fetch with this slippery ball of death for about 2 weeks and then one day, Peanut ran in to scoop it up off of a bounce…and it slipped right down his throat.  I carried him, stumbling and running, to the car and drove quickly to the vet as he tried to throw it up. He was still breathing, but there wasn’t much room for the air to get through.  Fortunately, he vomited on the way there and it came out.  I was not saved by own intelligence, just luck.

Note to self. Watch out for toys that can jump down your dog’s throat, and take a first-aid class for dogs.

I’m one of those rare dog trainers who actually likes retractable leashes, for certain uses. That said, I completely agree with the rest of my fellow trainers when they say these leashes can really be a hazard.

I’ve been wanting to write an article on retractable leashes for a while, but I was prompted to write by a client, who has a fearful dog. She’s granted me permission to quote her:

When I spot a dog on an extendable leash, I cross to the sidewalk on the other side of the block. On a recent walk I found myself on the same sidewalk, on a block with the other sidewalk closed due to construction. I opted to step into the empty street, putting a parked car between us and waiting for the others to pass by. I noticed the elderly owner watching our actions. As soon as we popped back onto the sidewalk, to my great astonishment, the woman allowed the leash to unreel and her dog to approach mine, thereby undoing the careful control I had over my dogs! My leash aggressive dog was not happy, nor was I and I made a point of telling her so.

I’d like to appeal to the neighbors and relatives of [people who use these leashes] to educate them on the many disadvantages of walking a dog on a retractable leash.

Let me start with the good side of retractable leashes. Clearly, there wouldn’t be 10 different brands of the same product if nobody liked them! Here are some of the benefits of using an extendable leash:

• Dog gets room to run and sniff bushes..
• Dog can escape from scary monsters – one reason that I used a Flexi leash with my own dog, Peanut, for a while. He actually got quite a bit more confident, knowing he could escape.
• Dog gets more exercise than the owner does. All of that back and forth tires them out!
• Dog pulls less strongly on a retractable leash.
• Good for practicing coming when called on walks.
• In a pinch, the leash can be used as a fetching toy. At least, Peanut enjoyed fetching his, until he bit down a bit too hard one time.

Now here are some drawbacks of retractable leashes. I’ll follow that up with another list of how one can responsibly walk with a retractable leash. I do believe that, in the right hands, in the right places, a retractable leash can be a good tool to have.

• Teaches dogs to pull on leash. There has to be constant pressure on the leash, unless it’s locked, so dogs quickly learn that pressure on the leash means nothing, nada, and in order to get their attention, you have to pull harder. THE FIX: always attach the retractable leash to the back of a harness or some other outfit in which you don’t care if your dog constantly pulls.
• No real control. Your dog is not truly ‘on leash’ with a retractable leash. It’s more like a 20-foot force-field that keeps them in. But the leash will do very little to direct them, one way or another, if you are that far back. THE FIX: Train, train, train using positive reinforcement! Your dog should listen to verbal cues to come back, slow down, etc. when on a retractable leash. Otherwise, you find yourself reeling them back in like a fish on a line.
• Offends or scares other people and dogs. See the story above for details, but basically, if you allow your dog to run up to another dog or human without permission, you are being extremely rude. Dogs have a variety of issues, people have allergies, or can be scared of dogs, even your tiny Chihuahua. THE FIX: Before any blind corners or when you see people coming, immediately call your dog back and shorten/lock the leash when they get there.
• Wicked rope burns. I can’t tell you how painful it is to have that little bitty rope run across your shin, but it’s happened to me plenty of times in dog training classes. I officially ban them from classes for this and other reasons. THE FIX: always be aware of where that leash is, and keep it from wrapping around people. Your thumb should always be ready to lock the leash, your voice ready to call the dog. Watch out for cyclists on trails, too…
• Dogs have way too much momentum. Dogs can pull hard enough on a little short leash. With a retractable leash, they can build up quite a head of steam! THE FIX: Hold on tight! Work on training your dog to come when called, so you can stop her before she pulls you off your feet. Use a back-attachment harness, never a prong collar, head collar, flat collar, or front-attachment harness with retractable or other long leashes, because of the damage they can inflict.
• Dropping the leash is extremely freaky. Many years ago, I had a dog on a Flexi leash and dropped it. She then thought this bouncy, noisy thing was chasing her and she ran completely around the block in a panic, with me running after her. THE FIX: Hold on tight, or get one of those wrist straps so you don’t drop it. Also associate the sound of the leash falling with good things, starting with just setting it lightly on the ground and working up (over several weeks) to dropping it while it’s attached to your dog.
• Retractable leashes can break. THE FIX: Always check your gear for bites or rips, and practice calling your dog back a lot, so it works in an emergency. Get a stronger leash for stronger dogs. Run the other way to get your dog to chase you, if all else fails.

So there are a lot of drawbacks to retractable leashes! If you know them all and manage to not offend or scare others, keep your dog safe, and avoid the rope burns, go ahead and use a retractable leash! I did. (Though I did still manage to wrap it around myself a time or two).

If your dog is not 110% reliable off leash, you can definitely use a retractable leash to give him some more freedom on hikes in the woods, or on the sidewalk when you know you aren’t about to encounter another dog or person.

Note: You can also use a long training leash instead of a retractable leash. It has a bit more tendency to tangle, but it also avoids teaching your dog to pull and forces you to be more engaged in the process.

Whatever you do with your dog, please always be aware that others may not view your dog as you do, even if your dog is friendly. Don’t force others to cross the street or avoid you and your dog. That applies to retractable leashes, long leashes, walking your dog off-leash, how you fence your dog in your yard, letting your dog go say hi, and more.

Discussion: Do you use a retractable leash? Why? Do you hate them? Why?

However, I went to the Nutro website and they deny that the FDA is looking into their foods. You can read the Nutro website here. I don’t know who’s telling the truth, but if you do feed Nutro, it would be a good idea to look into this. It’s always best to be informed! UPDATE: See video in this post, which says Nutro’s right, there is NO FDA investigation.

From the Nutro Web Site: “For the past year, ConsumerAffairs.com, an “independent Web-based consumer news and resource center,” not affiliated with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission or Consumer Reports, has been selectively posting consumer complaints and authoring its own statements that draw false links between isolated instances of illness and death among pets, and the consumption of NUTRO^® pet food products.”

From the Consumer Affairs website on April 20:
“The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has confirmed that the agency is investigating NUTRO pet food, following a series of unexplained illnesses and deaths. Consumers have been complaining for more than two years that their pets have become ill after eating NUTRO products; many have recovered when they were switched to other foods. The company has steadfastly denied that its food is to blame.”

FYI, Nutro was part of a recall in 2007 (FDA website). I’m a nervous nellie when it comes to feeding my dogs, so I only get products made in the USA or Canada, the closer to Seattle, the better.

UPDATE: I found this video from 4/24/09 of a tv news program that said the FDA denied any investigation when asked by CNN. So are those reports of sick dogs just made up, or is the FDA behind?

And a quote from the FDA from WXYZ news, Detroit: “Normally, we do not confirm or deny the existence of an investigation. In this situation, though, it’s unfair to the company to leave the implication out there, so I want to state that there is NO INVESTIGATION currently underway into NUTRO products.”

Your dogs may also find cocoa mulch out on walks, so be careful!

Many garden-related products can be toxic to dogs, like slug bait and weed killers, so please take that all into account when you shop!  This warning first came out in 2001. I think Hershey’s is no longer selling Cocoa Mulch, as the link to it is broken, just redirects back to the home page. But there are probably other brands out there that use cocoa beans for mulch. I imagine coffee as mulch has a toxicity problem, too, except dogs don’t seem to like it as much.

Theobromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker’s chocolate, which is toxic to dogs in large amounts. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, axanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

More info is on Snopes and Urbanlegends.about.com.

People just disgust me sometimes, you know? What deranged person would think poisoning dogs is ok?

Whether reports of dog poisoning in West Seattle are true or not (and I think they are), this tragedy is a reminder that we should be cautious about letting our dogs forage on walks. To our students: “Leave it” is one of the skills that you may want to spend more time practicing!

The Here’s a blurb about Katrina dog that was a victim of this poisoning (not written by me):

****

Mo was rescued from New Orleans and moved into the West Seattle area when he was fostered/adopted after the Katrina tragedy. He is now the second personal story I know about regarding dogs being poisoned in the West Seattle area parks. Whatever the purpose is NO ANIMAL should be subjected to such agony. I was one of the people that rescued Mo from the streets of New Orleans and needless to say, this is personal. Rescuers do not go into physical and emotional overdrive to help animals only for some jerk(s) to kill them.

***

Reward offered
Pasado’s Safe Haven is offering a $5,000 reward for tips leading to the arrest, prosecution and conviction of the person or persons involved with poisoning dogs in West Seattle. Tips can be called in to 206-300-7218. Callers will remain anonymous. Please post one of Pasado’s flyers up at a park near you! Click here to download the flier.

Click to view an interview from King 5 News about the poisoning story.

The National Geographic website has a lovely interactive chart on how much white, milk, dark, baking, and powdered chocolate is toxic – and what reaction your dog might have with each amount – vomiting, rapid heartbeats, tremors/seizures, or death. You can select your dog’s weight and it will tell you the amount of chocolate that causes each response in a dog. View it on the National Geographic website.

Another helpful page on that site discusses a few toxic foods: onions, garlic, yeast (as in raw bread dough), alcohol, grapes/raisins, macadamia nuts, and coffee. Or read a story about raisin poisoning in a dog. Raisins and grapes can cause renal failure in dogs. NEVER use raisins or grapes as a treat, because as few as 7 raisins can be toxic for dogs.

Need more ways to worry about your dog? Don’t miss the article in the Ahimsa blog on Household toxins and poisonous plants.

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Your dog, much like a newborn baby, turns into an elephant into an accident. What I mean by that is that at 30 miles per hour, your 60 pound dog will fly through the window or hit the back of your seat weighing 2700 pounds!  Most “car harnesses” only hold about 100-200 pounds, so be careful of what brand you pick. Avoid plastic or metal that is weight bearing, unless it’s very sturdy.

I think being secure in the car can also help with carsickness.

I always seatbelt my dogs in the car. I used to use a crate, but I now believe that a strength-tested harness is safer and takes up a lot less room in the car. It’s slightly more of a pain, because you have to buckle them in. I used to use the Roadie, which works fine, but now I use the PetBuckle, because I think it’s more comfortable and it’s also one-size fits all. (really – I use the same one for my 65 pound dog and her 12 pound best friend. I got mine from PetExpertise.com. I usually have one at the training center if you want to look at it.

I recommend restraints in the car for any dog, even the ones who hold still, because it’s very hard to hold still when you’re flying through the windshield.

The ASPCA Poison Control Hotline is (888) 426-4435. It costs $55. I have also called the regular human poison number.

While I don’t recommend that you worry constantly that your dog may get into something and die, a bit of caution is a great idea, as is keeping your dog safe by getting hazardous things out of their way. Use cupboards for in-home toxins and remove toxic plants or put them in a spot the dog doesn’t go – behind a fence would be the most safe.

Here’s the list from the ASPCA (click here for their page)

Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pet

• Alcoholic beverages
• Avocado
• Chocolate (all forms)
• Coffee (all forms)
• Excessive Fatty foods
• Macadamia nuts
• Moldy or spoiled foods
• Onions, onion powder
• Raisins and grapes
• Salt
• Yeast dough
• Garlic
• Products sweetened with xylitol

Warm Weather Hazards

• Animal toxins—toads, insects, spiders, snakes and scorpions
• Blue-green algae in ponds
• Citronella candles
• Cocoa mulch
• Compost piles Fertilizers
• Flea products
• Outdoor plants and plant bulbs
• Swimming-pool treatment supplies
• Fly baits containing methomyl
• Slug and snail baits containing metaldehyde

Medication
Common examples of human medications that can be potentially lethal to pets, even in small doses, include:

• Pain killers
• Cold medicines
• Anti-cancer drugs
• Antidepressants
• Vitamins
• Diet Pills

Cold Weather Hazards

• Antifreeze (non-toxic is available)
• Liquid potpourri
• Ice melting products
• Rat and mouse bait

Common Household Hazards

• Fabric softener sheets
• Mothballs
• Post-1982 pennies (due to high concentration of zinc)

Holiday Hazards

• Christmas tree water (may contain fertilizers and bacteria, which, if ingested, can upset the stomach.
• Electrical cords
• Ribbons or tinsel (can become lodged in the intestines and cause intestinal obstruction—most often occurs with kittens!)
• Batteries
• Glass ornaments
• Fireworks

Non-toxic Substances for Dogs and Cats
The following substances are considered to be non-toxic, although they may cause mild gastrointestinal upset in some animals:

• Water-based paints
• Toilet bowl water
• Silica gel
• Poinsettia
• Cat litter
• Glue traps
• Glow jewelry

Plants

Many plants are safe for animals.  Many aren’t.   Click here for the list of toxic plants.

The ten most common toxic plants are:

• Marijuana (lack of coordination, vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, increased heart rate, and even seizures and coma)
• Sago Palm (vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures and liver failure), Lilies (severe kidney damage)
• Tulip/Narcissus bulbs (intense gastrointestinal irritation, drooling, loss of appetite, depression of the central nervous system, convulsions and cardiac abnormalities)
• Azalea/Rhododendron (vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness and depression of the central nervous system – could ultimately lead to coma and death from cardiovascular collapse)
• Oleander (gastrointestinal tract irritation, abnormal heart function, hypothermia and even death)
• Castor Bean (severe abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, weakness and loss of appetite. Severe cases of poisoning can result in dehydration, muscle twitching, tremors, seizures, coma and death.)
• Cyclamen. (gastrointestinal irritation, including intense vomiting. Fatalities have also been reported in some cases.) Cylamen species contain cyclamine, but the highest concentration of this toxic component is typically located in the root portion of the plant.
• Kalanchoe (gastrointestinal irritation, as well as those that are toxic to the heart, and can seriously affect cardiac rhythm and rate)
• Yew (central nervous system effects such as trembling, incoordination, and difficulty breathing. It can also cause significant gastrointestinal irritation and cardiac failure, which can result in death.)

The ASPCA has a very comprehensive list of foods that have been recalled. If you click on the manufacturer, they will often tell you that they are doing something about fixing this problem. If they don’t, they are setting us up for another round of sick dogs. Click here for the ASPCA list of recalled foods.

I’m currently feeding Pinnacle and also feeding some other fresh foods. If I weren’t so lazy, I would prepare all of my dog’s meals myself. I also just got a fun dog-human cookbook. The Dog Ate It: Cooking for Yourself and Your Four-Legged Friends. I’m not much of a cook, but they did like the macoroni and cheese and we’re still having it for leftovers, too!

I have some awful news. A dog that took puppy class with me this spring passed away last week. Her harness caught on the exercise pen that she was kept in when her owners were gone for a bit, and she strangled.

The family emailed me because they wanted to prevent other dogs from danger. They asked me to be sure to tell people that it was a Shih Tzu – not the kind of dog one might expect to leap acrobatically into the air and get stuck on something high up.

I had heard rumors of this problem, and put my dogs into breakaway collars, but having never actually known a dog that had this happen, I thought it was very rare and got rid of the collars.

Looking into it, it seems it’s common enough to warrant warning you: 91% of vets say they have had 1-5 dogs in their practice who have strangled in the last year. I have just ordered several KeepSafe breakaway collars, which bust open if the dogs tangle in something but can be clipped to work like a regular collar when on leash. You can get them at the training center starting next week, or you can order them on our online dog store.

If you do get a breakaway collar, or have your dog go collarless in the home, it’s *especially* important to microchip your dog.

Love them every day, and don’t sweat the small stuff. Life is too short for dogs, even if we do everything right.

FOXTAILS – Danger!

Foxtails are a plant seed that land on your dog’s fur and then keep burrowing in, given the chance. I’ve had clients whose dogs and cats have had them in eyeballs, paws, and skin. They are known to go deeper, too, into the animal’s body, winding up in hearts and lungs. The dog parks are full of them and they are traveling now due to the hot weather drying up the plants. I spent yesterday removing as many as I could from the front of the training center.

Make sure to look at your pet’s fur whenever you come back inside from a walk or play time. Look in the fur and between the toes. Take note of any strange pawing at the ears or an unusual amount of sneezing. One cause of sneezing is that there may be a foxtail up your dog’s nose.

For more info, visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foxtail_%28diaspore%29

And of course, the top of the summer danger list: do not leave your dog in a car during the summer. It heats up much faster than you think, even with the windows down.